The perpetual calendar, according to the masters

Jaeger-LeCoultre, the skeleton of time

One of the latest and most complex Perpetual Calendars made by Jaeger-LeCoultre is the Master Grande Tradition à Quantiéme Perpetuel 8 Jours SQ, Which was presented a couple of a years ago.

It is not just any old timepiece. To make it, the manufacturer from Le Sentier was inspired by a historical Grande Complication pocket watch from 1928, retaining some of its design codes and modernising others.

One of the most characteristic traits is the use of enamel. That model from the early 20th century combined yellow gold and blue enamel, which were used on the case and bezel. In this case, Jaeger uses it to decorate the white gold champlevé rings on the dial and on the case back of the watch.

The other trait, probably the most obvious, is the skeletonising. The Master Grande Tradition à Quantième Perpetuel 8 Jours SQ eliminates all superfluous elements from the Calibre 876 to expose only the inner workings of the watch on its two faces. Since it is an irreversible process, and to ensure that the movement continues to be equally rigid and reliable, the work must be performed flawlessly, little by little, millimetre by millimetre. And this is how it was done by the in-house engravers, who also added an amazing engraving that decorates all the bridges of  the movement and includes the manufacture’s name
on the back.
As for the position of the information on this Perpetual Calendar, apart from the hours and minutes, we could say that it is a rather traditional layout. The day of the week at 9 o’clock (in a disc that includes moon phases), the date at 3 o’clock and the month at 6 o’clock form three vertices of a rhombus that is completed at 12 o’clock with the day/night indication and the power reserve display. All of this is housed in a white gold 42 mm case.

The watch’s functions are driven by the Calibre 876, a movement created in 2004 which on this occasion has the added initials SQ in its name to refer to the skeletonising (squelette). despite this, its speci cations have not changed. It is a self-winding calibre that provides an 8-day power reserve and is comprised of 262 components, including 37 rubies. The balance, which has no regulator, oscillates at a frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour.

Chopard’s all-terrain model
Our analysis continues with the recently released L.U.C. perpetual Chrono, available in two limited series of 20 units in Fairmined 18-carat white gold or Fairmined 18-carat rose gold.
As seen in the picture, the work done by the company at its facilities in Fleurier is very different from that of Jaeger-LeCoultre for two reasons: rst off, because it is a much sportier watch; and secondly, because it adds a chronograph function that the previous model didn’t have.
As a result, Chopard played with a case diameter that increases to 45 mm, which is spacious enough to accommodate all the relevant indicators without hindering readability.
The watch has three sub-dials which provide chronograph information as well as perpetual calendar information. The measurement of short time intervals, the markers and hands of which are distinguished by the colour red, is expressed with the central seconds hand, the 12-hour counter at 9 o’clock and the 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock.
Meanwhile, the perpetual calendar uses two types of indications. There is the dual window for the date located at 12 o’clock, a position which makes it possible to lighten up the weight of the case, which is concentrated in the two sub-dials mentioned above. The days of the week and a small day/night display are located at 9 o’clock, while at 3 o’clock we nd the months and the leap year cycle. The perpetual calendar is completed with a stunning depiction of the moon phases at 6 o’clock.
All of this is framed by a 15.06 mm thick case and a dial crafted in ruthenium-toned gold with a sunburst satin-brushed and hand-guilloche finish with beams radiating from the double date window and large applied Roman numerals.
The calibre driving all these virtues is the new L.U.C. 03.10-L, a hand-winding movement that oscillates at 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and builds up an impressive 60-hour power reserve. Moreover, it is also worth noting that the chronograph features a flyback function and uses a vertical coupling clutch and column wheel, which improves the speed and smoothness of activation. The mechanism is COSC-certified and certified with the Poinçon de Genève owing to the quality of the finishes.

Patek philippe, a modern classic

As could not be otherwise, we return to the most classic version of the Perpetual Calendar created by Patek Philippe. This year, the Genevan manufacturer has released the new Ref. 5327, a model which follows in the footsteps of the 5140 while also featuring some significant differences.

The Perpetual Calendar 5140, which the watchmaker continues to produce in a platinum version, measures 37.2 mm in diameter and uses dauphine hands, which are straighter and more angular, to match the baton markers.

The new 5327, however, increases the diameter to an equally contained 39 mm and combines gold applied Breguet numerals with feuille hands, thus giving the finished product a curvier, more owing look. These are changes that would go unnoticed to the uninitiated in the world of haute horlogerie but will surely be taken into account by ne watch enthusiasts.

With regard to the indicators, the new Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5327 retains the inverted cloverleaf layout of its predecessor, with the day of the week and the 24-hour indication at 9 o’clock, the date and the moon phases at 6 o’clock, and the month and the leap year at 3 o’clock. unlike what happens in the models by Jaeger-LeCoultre and Chopard discussed above, Patek Philippe frees up the top of dial, where only the name of the company is shown.
As for the mechanics, the Genevan brand has continued to rely on its calibre 240 Q, an ultrathin (3.88 mm) mechanical self- winding movement that oscillates at 21,600 vibrations per hour and builds up a power reserve of between 38 and 48 hours. All of its indications, except for the moon phases, are shown using a hand. Patek Philippe offers this new Perpetual Calendar 5327 in a beautiful blue and white gold version, as well as a rose gold version and a yellow gold version, both of which feature an ivory lacquered dial.